How to Get Around the Amalfi Coast Without a Car (My Experience)
Planning transportation was honestly one of the biggest challenges before my Amalfi Coast trip.
When I started researching, almost every guide recommended renting a car, while others suggested using the local SITA buses. After reading countless reviews about heavy traffic, crowded buses, and difficult parking, I decided to take a completely different approach.
During my five-day Amalfi Coast trip in September, I explored the coastline without renting a car and without using the buses at all. Instead, we based ourselves in Salerno and travelled everywhere by ferry.
Looking back, I wouldn’t change a thing.
Not only did travelling by boat make getting around surprisingly easy, but it also gave us some of the most beautiful views of the Amalfi Coast that you simply can’t experience from the road.
This ‘How to get around the Amalfi Coast without a car’ guide is based entirely on my own experience and explains exactly how we travelled between destinations, why we chose ferries over buses, and what I would recommend if you’re planning your first trip.
Quick Summary
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Best way to get around | Ferry |
| Do you need a car? | No, not in my experience |
| Home base | Salerno |
| Transport I used | Ferries only |
| Ferry companies | Travelmar, NLG & Alicost |
| Best for | First-time visitors |
| Visited | September |
How To Get Around The Amalfi Coast Without a Car:
Getting from Naples Airport to Salerno
Our flight landed in Naples, and from there we headed straight to Naples Central Station (Napoli Centrale) to catch a train to Salerno.
We couldn’t find the ticket office at Naples Central Station, so after noticing that many other travelers were using the self-service ticket machines, we bought our tickets there as well. The process was simple and quick.
One important tip I’d give every first-time visitor to Italy is this:
If you buy a paper regional train ticket, don’t forget to validate it before boarding the train. Near the platforms you’ll find small validation machines where you need to stamp your ticket before your journey begins.
It’s a small detail that’s easy to miss, but it can save you from an unnecessary fine.
After arriving in Salerno, we checked into our accommodation and used the city as our base for the next five days.
Why We Chose Salerno as Our Base
Choosing Salerno turned out to be one of the best decisions we made during the trip.
While many visitors choose to stay in Positano or Amalfi, I wanted a place that offered easy access to every destination we planned to visit.
From Salerno, we could easily reach Positano, Amalfi and Capri by ferry, making it the perfect starting point each morning.
Another advantage was flexibility. Every day we could simply walk to the ferry terminal, buy tickets for the next available departure, and adjust our plans if necessary.
For our style of travelling, Salerno was practical, convenient, and much less stressful than staying directly on the busy Amalfi Coast.
Why We Chose Ferries Instead of Buses
Although buses are the cheaper option, we decided before our trip that ferries would suit us much better.
One of my biggest concerns about the buses was the possibility of not being able to get on because of the crowds. Even in early September, the Amalfi Coast was still busy, and I didn’t want to spend part of our holiday waiting for the next bus.
Instead, we chose to travel by ferry every single day.
Yes, ferry tickets are more expensive than bus tickets, but for us the experience was absolutely worth it.
Watching Positano, Amalfi and the dramatic cliffs slowly appear from the sea became part of the trip itself. Every journey felt like sightseeing rather than simply getting from one place to another.
I can’t personally compare the ferries to the buses because we never used the buses during our trip. However, based on our own experience, travelling by ferry was comfortable, enjoyable, and one of my favorite parts of visiting the Amalfi Coast.
Why We Didn’t Book Ferry Tickets in Advance
Normally, I always book transportation in advance whenever I travel. It gives me peace of mind knowing everything is already planned before I even leave home.
For the Amalfi Coast, however, I decided to do the exact opposite.
The weather forecast for early September kept changing every day. One moment it showed sunshine, then heavy rain, and the next day it changed again. Because so many ferry routes depend on weather conditions, I didn’t want to lock myself into a fixed schedule.
Looking back, it was definitely the right decision.
During our trip, we actually had to swap our Capri and Amalfi days because of the weather. If I had booked all of our ferry tickets weeks in advance, changing our itinerary would have been much more complicated.
For this reason, I’d recommend staying flexible if you’re visiting during a period with unpredictable weather. On the other hand, if you’re travelling during the busiest summer weeks and the forecast looks stable, booking online in advance may give you extra peace of mind.
Ferry Companies We Used
Throughout our trip, we travelled with three different ferry companies:
- Travelmar
- NLG (Navigazione Libera del Golfo)
- Alicost
Instead of booking online, we purchased every ticket directly at the ferry terminals on the day of travel.
Ticket prices varied depending on the destination, departure time, and ferry company, so we simply chose the departure that worked best for our plans each day.
Before our trip, I compared ferry schedules and prices on Omio, which I found very helpful for planning our itinerary.
Our Experience at the Ferry Terminals in Salerno
Salerno has two main ferry terminals: Concordia and Salerno Port (Molo Manfredi), so it’s always worth checking which one your ferry departs from before leaving.
During our trip, we walked to the ferry terminal closest to our accommodation because that was where we expected our ferry to Positano to leave. However, a large cruise ship had docked there that morning, and ferry departures to Positano had been moved to Salerno’s other ferry terminal.
Fortunately, we had enough time to walk over, buy our tickets there, and continue our journey without any problems.
Experiences like this reminded me why I was happy we had decided not to book all of our ferry tickets in advance. Having a flexible itinerary made situations like this much easier to manage.
What the Ferries Were Like
Overall, we had a very positive experience travelling by ferry.
All of the ferries we used offered both indoor seating and outdoor decks, so you could choose whether to relax inside or enjoy the incredible coastal views outside.
There was also a small café on board where you could buy drinks and snacks, as well as restrooms, making the journeys comfortable.
We paid for all of our tickets by bank card, which was quick and convenient.
One thing to keep in mind is that the sea can be quite rough depending on the weather. During our trip, the ferries rocked quite a bit at times, especially on open stretches of water. If you’re prone to seasickness, it’s worth being prepared.
We only travelled with small day bags containing everything we needed for each day’s trip, which made getting on and off the ferries quick and easy.
One final tip: we usually arrived at the ferry terminal around 30 minutes before departure, and I’d recommend doing the same. During our trip, one of our ferries to Capri appeared to leave earlier than the scheduled departure time, so arriving early gave us extra peace of mind.
My Tips for Visiting the Amalfi Coast Without a Car
- Stay in Salerno if you plan to visit multiple towns.
- Check the weather forecast before buying ferry tickets.
- Arrive at the ferry terminal early.
- Double-check which ferry terminal your ferry departs from in Salerno.
- If possible, sit outside on the ferry for the best coastal views.
- Travel with a light day bag instead of heavy luggage during day trips.
Final Thoughts
If I ever return to the Amalfi Coast, I would choose ferries all over again.
For me, travelling by boat wasn’t just transportation—it became part of the experience itself. Watching Positano appear from the sea, arriving in Amalfi by ferry, and enjoying the spectacular coastline from the water made every journey feel memorable.
While ferries are certainly more expensive than buses, the flexibility, comfort, and incredible scenery made them worth every euro in my opinion.
If you’re planning your first Amalfi Coast itinerary and don’t want the stress of driving or finding parking, travelling without a car is absolutely possible. Based on my own experience, staying in Salerno and using ferries was one of the best decisions we made during our five-day trip.
Travel Disclaimer : This article is based entirely on my personal travel experience during a five-day trip to the Amalfi Coast in September. Ferry schedules, ticket prices, departure ports, and transportation services may change over time, so always check the latest official information before your trip.
